#46 | Blackberry, Blackberry, Blackberry

💜 Haricot Mauve

Jun 26, 2021

Hello!

This poem always reminds us of summer:

All the new thinking is about loss.
In this it resembles all the old thinking.
The idea, for example, that each particular erases
the luminous clarity of a general idea. That the clown-
faced woodpecker probing the dead sculpted trunk
of that black birch is, by his presence,
some tragic falling off from a first world
of undivided light. Or the other notion that,
because there is in this world no one thing
to which the bramble of blackberry corresponds,
a word is elegy to what it signifies.
—Robert Hass, from Meditation at Lagunitas

By the way, I'm Bruce Cole, Publisher of Edible San Francisco. Welcome to all the new subscribers this week. If you'd like to hop off anytime, simply unsubscribe. I appreciate you reading (and sharing) this newsletter.

Let’s eat!

👑 EAT

Italian Trionfo Violetto beans. Photo: Bruce Cole

Haricot Mauve: You’ve boiled, blanched, simmered and most likely cooked green (or in this case, purple) beans to death before, but here’s a practically fool-proof method for the most flavorful beans ever: Roasted Green Beans. Edible San Francisco

The Takeout Order: Mamahuhu in San Francisco is looking to change the way people think about Chinese American classic dishes. The New York Times

Still A Thing: A tale of two kale salads, one beautifully plain, the other quite fancy. The Department of Salad

To Do List: From Now on, My Pancakes Will Be Masa Pancakes. Epicurious

🧃DRINK

Running With the Devil: “Is Hard Coffee the Most Chaotic Drink on Record? These days, the stuff is still harder to come by than a post-pandemic interaction that doesn’t induce hours and hours of social anxiety.” Food52 Drinks

The Chapman: A staple of Nigerian bars and restaurants, is “carbonated, citrusy and slightly tart and it’s considered non-alcoholic, containing only the small amount of alcohol from the drops of bitters, so it's popular with kids and adults alike.” Food & Wine

Just One More Drink: “In 2018, I drank every night. I developed this rhythm as a freelance writer: Once the clock hit 5:00 p.m., I would pour myself some mezcal and make a shitty cocktail with whatever else was lying around and I would drink until my mind got blurry.” Mayukh Sen in Good Drinks

Fancy Seeing You Here: Milk SF opens today (6/26) at 302 Valencia “touting a new piece of coffee technology from West Oakland’s Ground Control Coffee that will revolutionize the coffee world—if it hasn’t already.” KQED

🤡 THINK

Revisiting Lucky Peach: The chef-lionizing in food media has been hard to put a stop to, though now we are trying to laud only chefs and other figures in hospitality whom we see as “good,” though we have little evidence to back this up other than taking their word for it. From the Desk of Alicia Kennedy

Related: “Lucky Peaches were BIBLES and they looked so good you almost didn’t notice how deeply they condescended to, ignored or sexualized women but once you noticed it, it was really all you could see.” Jen Agg on Twitter

Ahem: Your annual reminder that just because a company slaps a rainbow on a product during Pride doesn’t mean it supports the community. Eater

Help Wanted: “Workers are staying away because the industry has never treated them with respect...Asking for better working conditions is treated as a sign of laziness and entitlement. I can’t count how many times a complaint to management has been met with, “You could always work somewhere else.” Grub Street

The Rancho Zen of Washing Dishes: “People would try to belittle me for being a dishwasher who never had a car, but there is absolutely no shame in working. And it’s never mattered how you get there, as long as you get there.” Arturo Soto in Pop-Up Magazine

Greed Burgers: “They’re not changing the food system; they’re just replacing one industrial product for another. That’s one of the reasons I wrote the book.” Larissa Zimberoff on her new book, Technically Food: Inside Silicon Valley's Mission to Change What We Eat in The Nation

Whoever Tells the Story, Owns the Story: Whetstone Radio Collective is a coming podcast network that will focus on global gastronomy through storytelling and conversations. Learn more and support this new project. Indiegogo

🎥 WATCH