#99 | Soleil Ho Is (Still) Eating Their Feelings
Juicy 🍅🍅🍅 with Spicy Chile Crisp
Hello!
APPLES
You love apples So let’s speak Of apples Say I were to hold you in my hand like an apple round and red And kiss you in bites on the table or Under the tree where you dropped tump And you reached up in cool shadow on the grass And bit back crunch: God I’d laugh knowing dreams Ask like this swallow by swallow
—Peter Heller, Poetry (February 2015)
By the way, I'm Bruce Cole, Publisher of Edible San Francisco. If you’re new here, welcome to EAT.DRINK.THINK., a newsletter spotlighting seasonal recipes, the latest SF Bay Area food news, poetry, and more!
👉 ICYMI: The most-clicked link from last week’s newsletter was Anna Voloshyna’s recipe for a Summery Vegetarian Green Borshch from Ukraine.
Do you know someone who loves to put sliced jalapeños in their rosé? Send them this newsletter!
FROM OUR LATEST ISSUE
Soleil Ho Is (Still) Eating Their Feelings:
Soleil has gone from inhabiting a transformative identity in the once almost exclusively white world of restaurant criticism, to evolving a new dimension for food writing, one that recognizes dishes prepared by others as merely a way into understanding the world and our place in it. Again and again, Soleil finds dignity, not in kitchen work per se, but in the expressiveness in the hands of the dumpling maker, the arepa artist, and the taquero; maybe even of the dishwasher. –John Birdsall on Soleil Ho, the San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic, in the latest Edible SF
Andy Baraghani on his Juicy Tomatoes with Italian Chile Crisp Recipe:
What would a tomato salad look like if it deserved a recipe? Something like this. Very savory. Topped with garlic chile crisp and dressed with its delicious oil. Anchovies and fennel seeds heighten the tomato’s flavor while bringing even more savory undertones. It’s spicy, with the chile flakes. It’s still simple but steals the show. Edible SF
👀
Third Rule of Dumpling Club: If the Team Wins, You Win. “Building and growing my team has been the hardest thing I’ve ever done, but it’s also the most rewarding and infinitely less lonely." —Cathay Bi, chef/owner of Dumpling Club
Can’t Watch This Too Many Times!
Just Say No: “A picklesicle is just about the most thirst-quenching thing you can imagine on a hot summer day.” Chef Vivian Howard on turning leftover pickle juice into popsicles. Bon Appetit
This Stirred Up Quite the Shitstorm:
One Last Glass Before We Go: It turns out that Haus, the sustainable aperitif brand based in Sonoma, wasn’t so sustainable after all, as the company ran out of cash before a $10 million funding deal with Constellation brands could be finalized. SF Chronicle
We just stocked up on our favorite, the Grapefruit Jalapeño aperitif, at 40% off. Get it while you can.
🍕 Shocker: Domino's pulled out of Italy after Italians showed no fondness for what passes as pizza in America. BBC
Sunset Farmers Market Survives: After St. Ignatius, the private college prep school in the Outer Sunset, tried to shut down the Sunset Mercantile Farmers Market, a tentative agreement was reached, and the market’s operating permit is set to be renewed through March of 2023. Richmond Review/Sunset Beacon
Bitter Chocolate: Workers at Dandelion Chocolate voted to unionize in April 2021, but “more than a year after workers voted to unionize, the movement seems to have stalled. Organizers say it’s the company’s fault.” Eater
An Apple A Day: 7x7’s guide to apple season in Sonoma County. Where to pick your own, plus eat and drink your fill.
22 Solutions-Focused Stories on the Food System in 2022: From seaweed farms to vegan Fridays, “recent stories about people working together with compassion, ingenuity, and solidarity across the food system.” Civil Eats
#Protip: Fattier meat needs more salt. ATK determined that cuts of meat with more marbling and fat content require more salt as fat tends to dull the palate and overpower the savory flavors. America’s Test Kitchen
We recommend San Francisco Salt Company’s Pure Salt, harvested off the coast of Northern California. It has a slightly finer texture than Diamond Kosher Salt (which we used to use for the longest time until one day we noticed on the label that it is owned by Cargill, the world’s largest agribusiness) but still large enough to sprinkle evenly. We buy it in bulk at Rainbow Grocery.
On repeat this week: DOMi & JD BECK: Tiny Desk Concert. “If you've heard a DOMi & JD BECK song or watched a performance online, expectations of catching brilliance when you witness the jazz duo in person are likely high. JD's drumsticks move faster than the brain can process. DOMi offers every appendage on her body to the keys. It's frantic but focused, and I can't stop watching.” NPR
DOMi & JD BECK have been in regular rotation on our playlists since we watched this video a couple of years ago of their live performance at The Moroccan Lounge, DTLA 1/18/2020. Simply astounding!
That’s all for this week.
We’re outta here. Be well and take care,
–Bruce
Do you follow us yet?
Instagram: 25K+ followers
Twitter: 52K+ followers
Facebook: 6500+ followers
In case you somehow missed that subscribe button:
"Despite its artistic intentions and its many accomplishments, humankind owes its existence to a six-inch layer of topsoil and the fact that it rains." —Anonymous
Luv that u cover the salt beat!