#142 | SF Pop-up Guide & Global Eats
Best for those who stalk menus, not people.
Greetings! Melody here, publisher of Edible San Francisco. Back with another round-up of culinary-related finds with zero reservations.
I’m moving to a bi-weekly posting schedule moving forward, but plenty to digest here to tide you over until April.
UNDERBELLY: THE TRUE PILLARS OF FINE DINING
My background as the in-house marketing director for a MICHELIN-acclaimed restaurant (RIP Berber SF) was my gateway drug into the world of culinary service. I knew nothing about mise en place, expo, FOH/BOH, or why it’s only accepted written as MICHELIN (all caps as officially requested by MICHELIN HQ) — but I took to it like I was born in the kitchen.
The beating heart of every restaurant is found in their staff. From dishwashers to prep cooks, there’s a beautiful unseen symphony that unfolds during service — precise, demanding, and relentless.
A clipped language — like roguish staccato poetry — calls for times and temperatures, and a perfect harmony arises that any industry outsider may mistake for chaos. Each manned station supports the subsequent next, and hierarchy isn’t based on status, but out of function.
While the MICHELIN star may shine on the chef, its brilliance is kindled by the hands behind the scenes. Here’s a glimpse of these unsung heroes:
It’s worth noting that not all restaurants use this form of hierarchy (also known as a brigade kitchen). The more complex the operation, the more defined the structure — and with that structure often comes tradition.
Speaking of traditions, MICHELIN establishments often spark debate about the formal customs that accompany fine dining. While the kitchen operates with military precision behind the scenes, the dining room has its own set of unspoken expectations. The brigade system demands discipline from staff, but what should be demanded of guests?
This brings me to a question that divides even the most passionate food lovers. When you're dropping three figures per person to experience culinary artistry created by this precise kitchen brigade, should your attire match the occasion?
Just for fun, I’m curious where you stand:
🏆 The 3-star gap: Japan rewards imperfection in restaurants. A refreshing perspective to contrast our society’s obsession with full marks. This might change how you experience your next dining adventure. Japan Times
🌽 Corn-munal sharing: An unusual drink in history — chicha is the banned drink of Columbia due to its bizarre ingredients: human spit, corn, and native yeast. Fun fact: only the community’s indigenous wise women were selected to chew maize to share their divine wisdom through saliva. BBC
🌙 Layered perfection: Ramadan ends next week so if you celebrate Eid al-Fitr, you have some time to create these ornate geometric cakes known as kek lapis or Sarawak layer cakes. The precision! The detail!
This stunning kaleidoscope pastry is by baking extraordinaire @kitchen_confidante. Try your hand with this Sarawak cake recipe here. Note: it’s a meticulous undertaking, so maybe give yourself a few days lead time. Food52
🫛 Pea-k flavor: It’s officially spring and I’m craving lighter fare. Dug through our recipe archives and found this beauty — Cracked Freekeh Salad With Peas — that checks off radishes and peas for that bite of seasonal perfection. Edible San Francisco
EDITOR’S MAP
Some events intel for your calendar.
SAT 3/23
🌭 Weenies & Martinis Pop-up: Amelia — also known as @chefhejhej — is doing a Swedish hotdog takeover at Tallboy Bar in Oakland served with specialty martinis. 2 PM - 6 PM
SAT 3/29
📍 Pop-ups on the Plaza: Support BIPOC Women Makers for Women’s History Month. Held at the Ferry Building. 9 AM - 2 PM
🌃 A Passport of Flavor: La Cocina’s Night Market just introduced a new pricing tier for their culinary incubator takeover. A delicious tasting of global flavors spanning from Japanese to Afghani cuisine. 6 PM - 9 PM
MON 3/24
🍺 Mahjong Mondays: Learn and play the ancient game of mahjong (a tile-based strategy originating from China) over $5 beer and $5 eggrolls at Mamahuhu’s in Noe Valley. 6 PM - 9 PM
SUN 3/30
🏺 Snacky Dinner Pop-up: A tiny souk (market) in middle Richmond is owning the pop-up game. Shouk is pairing with cheeky SF-based ceramicist @frankceramics to host a snack-fueled supper experience served on a rare, limited edition plate you take home. Includes a Moroccan tea ceremony ending! 3 PM - 5 PM | 6 PM - 8 PM
image from @frankceramics on Instagram
PS The best culinary discoveries happen when they’re shared — forward this to your pop-up-obsessed friends.
FIELD NOTES
I attended the press preview of MESKI, the new joint venture between Draymond Green and Chef Nelson German. Set as an Afro-Latin Ethiopian restaurant and lounge honoring the African diaspora, it’s taking over the old Members Only cocktail bar on 1000 Larkin Street. Slated to open to the public on April 5.
I look forward to seeing how this concept evolves. Our city needs more gathering spots celebrating diverse culinary voices and perspectives, and this addition to the neighborhood feels particularly timely.
What culinary adventure do I need to go do next? What’s next on your plate? Tell me.
Until next time,
—Melody
Next edition arrives in two weeks. Stay curious and connected — same inbox, fresh discoveries.